Friday, August 29

Hello old friends

It's been a long time (8 years??) since I slipped these boys on my piggies. They're darn tight but I forgot just how grippy they are. I can't imagine what it must be like with "modern" shoes if they're better these days. First of many sessions starting this fall. I was encouraged by how I felt today scrambling 4th and low 5th around the first place I ever really climbed outside. Mind and body control was better than I ever remember it being before. Maybe I'm like fine wine? Okay probably not.

DC style goal: Lead solid 5.10 alpine trad by next summer
Testpiece A: Sunlight Spire - 5.10 - 2 pitches - 150 feet - 14,000ft elevation
Beta here, here and here.Testpiece B: Casual Route - 5.10a - 7 pitches - 900 feet - 14,259ft elevation
Beta here, here, and here.Those are probably big goals but I don't see why they wouldn't be possible. Might as well dream big and then start chasing.

Marni and I are taking a climbing class together soon too, just as soon as she tells me what night I can schedule it. I don't think she's ever been in rock shoes and she's only been roped up once or twice.

Tomorrow is King of the Rockies. Last XC race for the season I think so I better get to bed.


Dave said...

Totally doable. (have you led trad before?) Great trad and crack training down on the South Platte.

Weather doesn't look so good for mountains this weekend, so I may be in the rock gym a bit more.

It's been years since I was on the sharp end.

In my experience rock rubber hasn't actually gotten much better in the last decade. Nor shoe design, really.

Chris said...

Yea I've led trad before but not in the better part of a decade. Should be interesting getting back out there. Good to know I don't have to buy new shoes at least! :)